Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Nearing the end of our trip

Our last full day was spent more on shore than usual. First a quick dinghy trip to a new resort on Scrub Island where, as the name suggests, the terrain is challenging. The developers have had many missteps along the way, at least 2 of them going bankrupt, and any private home owners who might have been in on the first round have long since departed. The hotel is lovely and looks complete although not well attended from the looks of the empty lounge chairs around the pool. Partially completed houses are scattered along the primitive road that circumvents the island with only an occasional worker present. Is this lack of money or interested buyers or both we wonder? It may be years before the resort is complete.

Next we motored across a short stretch of water to Trellis Bay, our final destination. It is Kitty's birthday so we headed for town and a celebratory lunch. Crab salad followed by local gelato and chased down with 'painkillers' perfectly fit the bill.

Back on the boat Frits had one more segment of stitching to complete on the wheel. As he set to the task the rest of us relaxed in the cockpit to watch the sun go down

Tomorrow is the eighth day and so time to return home. Having this time to relax and enjoy friends is like a tonic for me that sends me forth with renewed vigor for my professional life and my private life. Maybe if I was here for longer I would slip into the retirement mode and find it difficult to regain my energy, but somehow I don't think so. I enjoy what I do as a Realtor and I plan to continue as long as I can. More time for family and travel is in the future but for now, having just sold our house of 35 years, we are beginning a new phase of our lives - building a new house.

Monday, November 21, 2011

Marina Cay

We arrived in Marina Cay around noon and tied up to a mooring just before the rains came. Instant showers are not uncommon in this area but today the wind has picked up forming whitecaps on the normally glass-like blue seas and the skies are heavy with clouds. Some reading and writing time below was not unwelcome and some snoozed while waiting for the sun to appear again.

Snorkeling in the rain is not unpleasant at all but the colors of the corals and the fish are so much more vibrant when the sun's rays are penetrating the surface. In due time we donned the snorkel gear and set off for the shallow waters. Marina Cay is a popular place for boats during windy conditions so even while we napped many boats had joined us. Still more were circling trying to find empty moorings so with an ear out for rumbling motors we struck out bravely across the churning waters. It was not an easy swim into the current but best to begin that way while the energy level is high. Still fighting the current we swam along the shore line looking for treasures. The coral is very fragile and must not be bumped or stepped upon. Not always easy to achieve, I might add.

Kitty spotted an urchin shell discarded by it's former owner and in pristine condition. That's one to treasure.

Trunk fish are hard-shelled and almost comical in their appearance. Their bodies are triangular shaped and their tiny fins flutter constantly like little whirlybirds to keep them afloat. If you are quick you can catch them and hold their horny outer shell while you take a good look. On this occasion, the one I saw was quite large and several feet down so I didn't think my chances were good. Having headed into the current the whole way, our return was fun. With almost no fin action we were propelled along at a good clip but still with much to see. A large puffer fish appeared out of nowhere, schools of electric blue tangs all moving in perfect sync swam by and even the usually shy smaller fish were out and about feeding and spawning.

One more dash across the busy harbor entry brought us safely back to Mirage for an evening of barbecued chicken and ice-cream with the obligatory rum punches.
Ahhh the life of the rich and famous!

Sunday, November 20, 2011

Back on Tortola

Another brisk sail to Tortola proved the new boat's speed and ease of sailing. With electric winches and furling main as well as jib, the brute strength sometimes needed to hoist these sails has been eliminated. Just as well at our age! Al skillfully eased the boat alongside the dock where we tied up, put up the awning and prepared to settle in for the night. As it turned out, a boat coming in from Bermuda (8 days on the open ocean) was in need of our place so we moved off the dock, danced around the many boats on moorings and ended up back on the dock. It was a good exercise in maneuverability.

Friday night is pizza night for a group of ex-pats either living on Tortola or their boats for the better part of the winter. Our hosts, Kitty and Al have befriended this group and often join them for a social evening. We tagged along and met new as well as old acquaintances for a jovial time. It was surprising how many had connections with Vermont and Stowe in particular.

The morning brought a few more small tasks and provisioning and then we set sail for Virgin Gorda. Once again Mirage performed flawlessly although the visiting crew managed to jam up a winch causing a slight delay in the action.

Mountain Point is on the west side of the island, a quiet little bay with no moorings but good anchorage. The only ones there, we dropped anchor well out from the rocky shore and swam in to shallower waters where the coral was spectacular and the fish and other sea life was abundant. It is hard to describe the extent of the variety of fish but suffice it to say that just when you think you have seen them all a surprise comes along. This day it was in the form if a shark! Nurse sharks are not aggressive towards humans but still it was more than 4 feet long, black and had the tell-tale fin on it's back. My heart missed a beat. As we watched, it swam slowly away from us into the depths not in the slight bit interested in us.

The spotted moray eel I spied within minutes, again not common, looked a lot more threatening. He quickly wriggled into a space under some coral with just the menacing end showing. Not a good idea to get too close. Reluctantly we ended our swim with the sun going down and the swells gaining size. With the boat rocking and rolling all night we moved on early the next morning.

Norman Island

Leaving midday for Norman, with sandwiches and beer in hand we made quick work of the short trip. With just the jib up and the wind behind us we flew across the water at a strong 8 and sometimes 9 knots. The boat was proving itself.

Norman Island is popular with many of the charters and private boats for its good moorings, abundant coral and fish life, and good hikes. We took advantage of all. The pelicans, seen from below with their round bellies and large webbed feet are quite comical. When they dive from 20 feet or so above the surface for a fish it is startling. The occasional tarpon swam by and in spite of their size were not in the least menacing. The barracuda, however, lurking just below us looked like it could have had us for dinner. Many varieties of fish and coral are present in these water and everywhere you look, and some places you don't, there are new creatures to see. Comparing notes after the swim we discover what different sets of eyes discern. Returning to the boat we were all thrilled to find a school of tarpon, perhaps 20 of these very large fish, just hanging out below the boat.

The stitching of the leather covering of the boat's wheel was showing wear from its previous owner so my husband, Frits, set about the task of restitching it. Having made moccasins in his hippy youth he is quite handy with the needle. The eight segments divided by the spokes presented a challenge in that with fewer days on the boat than sections he has to complete more than one section a day and only when the boat is at rest. He's on the third as I write. As the sun was going down we mixed ourselves a rum punch and climbed into the dinghy for a harbor cruise. Translation - 'let's go check out the other boats'. The charters hold little interest but our hosts had spotted friends across the bay. Semi- retired folk who spend 3 or 4 weeks at a time on their boat, Marion and Bob greeted us warmly and made plans to meet up later on Tortola. A small cruise ship was anchored further out so we took a lap around that too. Condo ships cropped up a few years back that appealed to some segments of our aging population. Older ships no longer useful in today's mammoth cruising industry have been converted into moving luxury apartments, each privately owned. This one is probably based in the Virgin Islands but there are others in constant movement around the globe. Cocktails and hors hors d'oeuvres were being served as we cruised by.

More snorkeling and hiking slated for the morning before moving on.

Saturday, November 19, 2011

Peter Island

Peter Island, just an hour or two from Tortola, has a quiet anchorage that most charters do not visit. The water is deep and only in the past couple of years have a few moorings been added. Those less experienced sailors are inclined to stay away so for us, and our well practiced hosts it is a more tranquil place to be. The snorkeling is good, the water clear and blue and the air is soft and warm.

Our first snorkel of the trip took us along the western shore where the coral has seen it's share of hurricanes. Much is in it's recovery stage but there is still enough to provide fertile feeding grounds for a variety of fish. The yellow jacks are common as are the blue tangs, squirrel fish and parrot fish. An occasional glimpse of a grey angel and a peacock cow fish keep us in the water for more than an hour.Early to bed after dinner on deck.The next morning the dinghy took us to shore for exploration. There are several good hikes that take you high on the island and loop back through the exclusive Peter Island Resort. We headed up a fairly steep concrete road from which huge views of the surrounding islands, secluded sandy beaches and miles of blue and aqua water could be seen. Within minutes the sky opened up and not only were we soaked instantly but the concrete beneath our feet turned into a fast moving river. Concrete troughs along the sides diverted most of the water into some kind of drainage system very quickly so we continued on. Being wet in the tropics is actually a good thing. As the sun came out again we stayed cool as we climbed higher and connected with a dirt road that led to two magnificent hill-top private homes. We could only peer through closed gates at the back side of a sprawling mansion with blue tiled roofs and a white stucco rounded confection, closely approximating a luscious wedding cake. Later from the boat we could easily see the splendid front sides with covered patios, swimming pools and the like.

Continuing on our walk we were drenched once again and so by the time we sauntered through the spiffy Resort where we had hoped to be taken for guests, our disheveled appearance easily marked us as interlopers.

Back on the boat it was time for 'work'. Sails had to be installed and rigged, equipment tested and small repairs made. Then it was time to move on.

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Day 1- Caribbean Vacation

Leaving the dreary November weather of Vermont for sunny warm shores is a must. Not only does the body need a few UV rays once on a while but a break before winter sets in helps one welcome the snow and cold temperatures that are bound to come. After Thanksgiving is soon enough for me.

So here we are, my husband and I and our wonderful friends, another couple from Stowe, on the maiden voyage of their, new to them, 54ft sailboat, Mirage.

We have sailed with them many times. In the early years on charters, and then more recently on their older boat we have traveled the British Virgin Islands, the Puerto Rican Islands of Culebra and Vieques and the island chain from St Lucia south to Union Island.

This shakedown cruise will keep us close to land while still being able to hop from island to island and explore the snorkeling sites, the best hikes and the rummiest drinks.

The first job at hand is to transfer all the necessities from the old to the new. With both boats rafted together we are able to skip back and forth with armloads of dishes, pots and pans, linens and the such and nest happily in our new digs. Once everything has been stowed and lunch prepared we'll be off on our first adventure.